Punakha Dzong and the Punakha Domchoe

Bhutan is divided into a number of different administrative districts or provinces.(what we might regard as states in the U.S.).  Historically, the seat of government in these provinces was at a Dzong, which is a fort-monastery shared between government offices and monk's quarters.  This dual function emphasizes the all permeating role of Buddhism in Bhutan.  It is said one cannot understand Bhutan without understanding Buddhism.

The Panakha Dzong is considered by many to be the most beautiful Dzong in Bhutan.  It served as the seat of government until the 1950's, when it was moved to Thimphu.  It sits strategically at the confluence of the Mo Chhu (Mother River) and Pho Chhu (Father River).  A smaller building next to it, Dzong Chug was built in 1326.  Inside the Dzong Chug is a wish-filling statue of the Buddha.  We left offerings and a young boy monk gave us a blessing in which he poured small amount of water from a vessel into our cupped right hand which we then splashed on our foreheads and back of our heads.

Construction on the Panakha Dzong began in 1637.  It remains the winter residence of the dratshang, the official monk body.  As one enters one sees steep wooden entrance stairs which can be pulled up and a heavy wooden entrance door designed for protection.  The Dzong has three interior court yards.  The northernmost courtyard houses administrative functions and has a beautiful, massive Bodhi tree.

The second courtyard houses the monastic quarters and in the southernmost courtyard is the temple and the "Hundred Pillar" assembly hall.  Within the assembly hall are gorgeous murals and massive gold statues of the Buddha and revered Bhutanese religious/political leaders, Guru Rinpoche and the Zhabdrung.  Again, we are not allowed to photograph inside sacred sites, but below are pictures from the entrances.

We were fortunate enough to be visiting the Dzong during the Puakha Domchoe, an annual festival recreating a 17th century battle scene.  In 1639 a Tibetan army invaded Bhutan in an attempt to seize  it's most treasured possession, a relic known as the Rangjung Kharsapani, an image of Chenresig, one of the four great bodhisattvas and the special guardian of Bhutanese religion.  The Bhutanese leader Zhabdrung concocted an elaborate ceremony in which he pretended to throw the relic into the Mo Chhu, prompting the disappointed Tibetans to withdraw.  The Punakha Domchoe lasts for 5 days.  We were there for the final day of the festival in which an image of the Zhabdrung is displayed.  Following this a group of 136 people dressed as pazaps (warriors) perform a dance in the court yard followed by shouting, whistling, and fire crackers going off.  A procession of monks proceeds to the river where Bhutan's religious leader, the Je Khenpo, accompanied by cymbals, drums, and trumpets throws a handful of oranges, symbolizing the Rangjung Kharsapani, into the river (thus re-enacting the Zabdrung's trick). 

Unfortunately, we did not arrive in time to see the entire ceremony.  However, the pictures below are an attempt to capture the vibrant colors, ceremony, and palpable joy present at the festival.