Taktshang Goemba

Finally, the day arrived for my most anticipated day trip - Taktshang Goemba Monastery or Tiger's Nest.  Taktshang is one of Bhutan's most venerated religious sites.  Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche flew to this site on the back of a tigress to subdue a local demon, Singey Samdrup, following which he meditated in a cave for three months.  Taktshang is periously perched atop a 900 meter sheerr cliff above the floor of the Paro valley.  The monastery dates to 1692.  Tradition says that the monastery was anchored to the cliff by the hairs of celestial female beings known as khandroma who transported the building materials up onto the cliff.

There are only three ways to get to Taktshang - walk, horse back, or on the back of a magical tigress, though the latter is recommended only for tantric gurus.  We chose to walk.  Unfortunately, it was raining and misty when we left at approximately 10:45 AM.  The hike requires 1.75 to 2 hours.  Initially, the trail climbed steadily thru a whispering, blue pine forest to a series of switchbacks with a steady gain of altitude.  After about an hour we reached the "cafeteria", a small wooden teahouse - restaurant.  We met a number of people descending from the top who informed us the mist obscured the view points, but it was still worth the hike to the top.  Meals were served, but we chose only to buy some bottled water and greet the local cat.

After treating our impending dehydration (a result of the altitude and work of the climb), we stepped onto the patio from which the famous pictures of "Tiger's Nest" which are on the cover of many travel brochures on Bhutan are taken.  Unfortunately, the mist obscured the view, though I did manage to get some brief glimpses.

We pressed on.  The way up became increasingly steep.  Finally we reached a view point and out of the mist across a ravine hundreds of meters deep arose Taktshang like an ethereal mystic kingdom.

Now the task was to get across the ravine.  We had to descend down and then back up a set of steel steps along the side of the cliff.  If you look closely you can see them coming up the side of the cliff in the picture immediately above from the lower left corner.  I have never been particularly fond of cliff edges.  After a quick peek over the railing at the hundreds of meters drop, I decided to just look down and keep concentrating on the next step.

After completing the steps we continued on a path toward a bridge in the distance.  The mist made everything look more magical, with moss hanging from the trees.

The monks take a lunch break from 1:00 until 2:00 pm, and we passed their kitchen on our way where some of them were finishing lunch.

We next came across a chapel with butter lamps and then wwent by a waterfall by the Singye Pelphu Lhakhang (Snow Lion Cave) which is associated with the Guru Rinpoche's consort (who was also able to transform herself into the flying tigress!).  Standing there and closing my eyes all I could here was the wind and the water.

 

We crossed the bridge and made our final ascent back up to Taktshang.

I wish that I could somehow show or describe how beautiful the interior of these monasteries are. However, no pictures are allowed.  At Taktshang, tourists have to have a guide who has obtained a permit to enter.  We were asked where our guide was, and had to explain that we had none because we were volunteers at the hospital in Thimphu.  We showed our work visas and were graciously allowed in after locking our cameras and cell phones in a locker and being frisked. 

The interior of the monastery has gorgeous wall murals, tapestries and statues.  There were numerous chapels.  To enter, all must take off their shoes ad have their legs covered.  Women must have there head covered with a scarf (which they handed out if you did not bring one)  In the chapels, pilgrims prayed and were blessed by priest.  Offerings of food (including a box of Ritz Bits) and money were left on the altar.  We left some nu (Bhutanese money) in each chapel we visited.

When we left the chapel we were treated to brilliant blue skies.  As we departed this spiritual place I turned several times snapping pictures and saying "Good Bye".

 

 

I believe this trip will be one of the most memorable days of my life, along with a handful of others.  I fear my words and pictures do not do the experience justice.